‘Every Cook Should Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks 4th on List of London’s Top Restaurants.
When curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.
An Surprise Honour
The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the owners completely astonished.
“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The Character of Simplicity
The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.
A Signature Offering: Tantuni
However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.
The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.
It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Beyond the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.
Surpassing the Giants
Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
A Creed of Hospitality
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
A Path of Hard Work
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
A Recognition for the Culture
This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.